Washing Machine Making Loud Noise? What Each Noise Means (and What to Check)
Washing machine making loud noise? Grinding, squealing, thumping, clicking, rattling — here's what each washer noise can mean and what to check first.
Different noises point to different systems — but a noise is a symptom, not a diagnosis. Start with the free checks (load, level, debris), and treat anything that needs the tub opened or parts replaced as a technician’s call. The machine’s own manual and model number are what decide the next step.
Before you start: unplug the washer. Never bypass a lid switch or door lock, and don’t open the cabinet or a component housing unless your model’s manual documents the procedure. Confirm any part against your exact model number.
Grinding or roaring during spin
A deep grinding or roaring during spin is a clue with more than one possible explanation — it does not identify a part by itself. Samsung’s noise guide describes a squealing/squeaking/grinding sound as metal rubbing against metal, and separately says a grating, grinding, or rattling that repeats every cycle can be the drain pump operating. LG’s noise guide lists an unbalanced load, a foreign object in the tub, and an unlevel machine as causes of noise during the spin cycle rather than naming a single failing part.
What to do: if the sound repeats every cycle, clean the pump filter (front-load, where the model has one) and check for debris. If it continues, stop and have the machine diagnosed. Tub or spin-basket bearings are one possibility, but confirming them means dismantling the tub — a technician job — so don’t order bearings on the sound alone. On an older machine a diagnosed bearing failure is often the point where replacement is the better value (see Repair vs Replace).
Squealing or squeaking
Samsung’s noise guide groups squealing, squeaking, and grinding as noises typically made by metal objects rubbing against each other, and states that in most cases this noise is due to overloading. On belt-drive machines a worn or dry belt is another possibility, but the sound alone doesn’t single it out.
What to do: stop the cycle and reduce the load, then re-run. Samsung’s own service test is to run a cycle with about four soaking-wet bath towels — if the noise still occurs, request service. Belt access and replacement differ by model family; if you can reach the belt without major disassembly and your manual covers it, check it for cracks and slack, otherwise have it diagnosed. Don’t buy a belt on the noise alone.
Thumping or banging
A rhythmic thump is a clue, not proof of one fault. Samsung’s noise guide describes thumping/knocking as a steady beat in time with the spin, notes that it can be normal for large or waterproof items such as bedsheets, and — when it isn’t — lists these checks: confirm the load is balanced, make sure the washer is level, and (front-load) confirm the shipping bolts are removed. Whirlpool’s top-load noise page points to drain/inlet hoses banging against the rear of the cabinet and to an unbalanced load creating movement in the basket.
What to do: redistribute the load and level the machine (free). On a new front-loader, confirm the shipping bolts and spacers were removed; also check that hoses aren’t knocking the cabinet. A heavy item stuck to one side can cause it. If it continues, have it diagnosed. See Washer Won’t Spin if the spin is cutting out.
Metallic clicking — foreign objects
Manufacturers list loose or foreign objects in the tub as a cause of clicking and rattling — Samsung’s noise guide, for example, says to look for anything rattling against the washer and to check the tub for loose objects, and LG’s lists a foreign object in the tub. Coins, keys, and screws are the usual culprits; you may hear it during wash and spin.
What to do: on a front-loader, check the drain-pump filter (where the model has one) and the door bellows for debris — see Washer Won’t Drain for the safe way to handle residual water before opening the filter. A sharp metal item can puncture the bellows and cause leaks; inspect the seal and have any damage repaired.
Rattling — loose hardware or debris
A light rattle can be a loose screw on the top panel, or debris in the pump. Tighten panel screws; if it persists, check the pump filter (front-load).
Humming with no movement — pump or motor
If the machine hums but nothing happens, the drain pump may be jammed (see Washer Won’t Drain) or the motor may be held. LG documents an overload or a foreign object in the tub under its tub-doesn’t-turn code (LE). This is a diagnosis step, not a part to order — have the specific fault identified for your model.
High-pitched whine
A steady whine during spin can have more than one source — a motor, a drive component, or (on direct-drive designs) the gearcase are all possibilities, and the sound alone doesn’t identify which. LG’s noise guide lists an unbalanced load, a foreign object in the tub, and an unlevel machine as causes of noise during the spin cycle rather than a specific failing part.
What to do: work the free checks first (load, level, visible debris). If the whine continues, get the machine diagnosed for your model before pricing any repair, then compare that diagnosis against replacement (see Repair vs Replace).
Diagnosis flow (in order)
- Is it only during spin? → load/level first (free), then bearing/belt as a technician diagnosis
- Does it thump rhythmically? → load/levelling/shipping bolts (free)
- Does it click metallic? → debris in the pump/bellows
- Is it a squeal? → reduce the load first, then belt as a model-specific diagnosis
- Does it hum without moving? → drain or motor fault — get it diagnosed
When to call a pro
Call a technician for any noise that needs the tub opened, the cabinet removed, or a component tested or replaced — bearings, gearcase, motor, and drive components are technician-level on most machines. Get it diagnosed before buying parts.
Parts & tools you may need
- Pump filter brush / torches and towels for residual water (front-load)
- Level (for the levelling check)
Component parts — belts, bearings, couplings, motors — should be confirmed for your exact model by a technician’s diagnosis before purchase.
FAQ
Q: Washing machine grinding noise during spin — is it serious? A: It depends on the cause, which the sound alone won’t tell you. Samsung says this type of noise is typically metal rubbing against metal and is frequently due to overloading — reduce the load and test with about four wet towels; it also lists the drain pump as a source, which points you to the pump filter. Bearing wear is possible too, but confirming it means dismantling the tub — a technician diagnosis. Get it diagnosed first.
Q: Why does my washer squeal when spinning? A: Samsung groups squealing with grinding as metal-on-metal noise and attributes most cases to overloading — stop the cycle and reduce the load. A worn or dry drive belt is another possibility on belt-drive machines; access is model-specific, so check your manual before opening anything.
Q: Metallic clicking in my washer — is it serious? A: Manufacturers list loose or foreign objects in the tub as the usual cause — coins or small metal items in the pump or bellows. Remove them and check the seal — a pierced bellows leaks.