Samsung Washer Error Codes: What Each Code Means
Samsung washing machine error codes explained — 4E, 5E, UE, 3E, 1E, tE, OE, dE and more. What each code means and what to check first.
Samsung washer error codes
4E or 4C — Water supply error
The washer isn’t getting water. Check: water valves behind the machine are fully open, inlet hoses aren’t kinked, and the inlet filters (where hoses connect to the washer) aren’t clogged with debris. Clean the filters with a toothbrush — a clogged inlet filter here is a known cause of poor water supply.
5E or 5C — No drain error (also shown as SE/SC on some displays)
Water isn’t draining at the correct speed — or at all. Samsung’s order is to check the washer is level, then inspect the drain-hose installation, and — on front-load models only — clean the pump filter (a small door at the bottom front; drain the water, then pull out coins/lint). (Samsung lists 5E, SE, 5C and SC as the same no-drain family.) See Samsung washer 5E.
UE — Unbalanced load
The machine can’t balance the load during spin. Redistribute clothes evenly, mix large and small items, and don’t overload. If it keeps happening, check that the washer is level (adjust the feet).
3E — Voltage error (model-dependent — not always the motor)
Per Samsung’s washer error-code list, 3E (marked with an asterisk) is a voltage error: an irregularity in the electrical current being supplied to the washer — a PF (power failure) error may also appear if the power went out.
Important: Samsung marks 3E with an asterisk because it can mean different things across model families. On some models it’s the voltage fault above; on others, manuals describe 3E as motor-related. Check your model’s manual to confirm which meaning applies before diagnosing.
Fix path: check the outlet/power supply and power-cycle the washer (unplug 5 minutes). If 3E recurs and your manual lists it as motor-related, check the motor wiring harness and connections.
1E — Water level or leakage error (older models)
Per Samsung, the 1E family (1E, LE, 1C, LC on older displays) is a water level or leakage error: moisture is detected somewhere it doesn’t belong, or there’s an issue with the level sensor itself.
Fix path: Samsung’s first step is to look for evidence of a leak (hoses, tub, dispenser). If there’s no leak, check the pressure hose for blockages and the sensor connections; if those check out, the sensor or its circuit may need diagnosis.
tE — Thermistor error
Samsung lists tE as a thermistor (temperature sensor) error. Check the visible connection and look for obvious damage; if the code persists once the power cycle and checks are done, Samsung directs owners to service. Sensor testing is model-specific — don’t replace a sensor on the code alone.
OE — Overflow error
There is too much water in the washer. Turn off the water supply at the hot and cold valves; if water keeps entering after the valves are closed, isolate the supply and request service. Samsung’s public guidance does not attribute OE to a component the owner should replace — don’t order a valve on the code alone. See Samsung washer OE.
dE / dc — Door error
The door isn’t closing or locking properly. Check for obstructions and make sure the door is fully shut, then inspect the door and latch for visible damage. Samsung directs owners to service if the door error remains after closure/obstruction checks — never bypass the door interlock, and don’t replace a latch part on the code alone.
SUD — Too much suds
Too much detergent created excessive foam. Run a rinse cycle without detergent, then use only HE detergent going forward — dose it per the detergent label’s instructions, adjust for load size, use the least amount needed, and never fill past the drawer’s MAX line (excess detergent causes oversudsing). (Source: How to Use Detergent in Your Samsung Washing Machine — Samsung Support)
Codes that vary by model
Samsung has changed code formats over the years (older models show 1E/2E-style, newer ones show 4C/5C). Always check your model’s manual — the code list is in the troubleshooting section. You can find manuals free on Samsung’s support site with your model number (it’s on the door sticker or the back panel).
How to fix any Samsung washer error: the 3-step process
- Power-cycle it: unplug for 5 minutes. Many codes clear on reboot (especially transient errors like 9E1/9E2 power issues).
- Check the obvious: water valves on, filters clean, drain clear, load balanced.
- Follow the documented checks for that code (above). Where a step needs component testing or the cabinet opened, that’s a technician’s call — don’t replace a part on the code alone.
Parts & tools you’ll need
- Samsung washer drain pump filter cleaner kit
- (Component tests need a multimeter and service information — a technician step, not an owner step on this page)
- Replacement inlet hoses (if old/cracked)
- HE detergent (if you’re getting SUD)
FAQ
Q: Samsung washer error code 5E — is it the pump? A: Work Samsung’s order first — level check, drain-hose installation, then (front-load only) the pump filter. If those are clear and it still won’t drain, Samsung directs owners to service; don’t order a pump on the code alone. See Samsung washer 5E.
Q: Why does my Samsung washer keep showing UE? A: On many models unbalanced loads are the cause — but if it happens on every load, check the leveling feet and the suspension rods/springs inside the top of the machine.
Q: Will unplugging my Samsung washer reset error codes? A: Don’t use a power cycle to silence a code in general — a reset is only appropriate where the manufacturer’s instructions for that exact code say so. If a code clears and returns, treat it as a real fault and follow the code-specific steps.
Related guides
- Washer Won’t Drain — 7 Causes & Fixes
- Washer Won’t Spin — 7 Causes & Fixes
- Washing Machine Making Loud Noise — Fixes
- Appliance Repair Cost vs Buy New (2026)
Codes vary by model and year. Confirm your specific model’s code meanings in the manual before ordering parts. When in doubt, a licensed appliance tech is worth the call.